Brda: the paddling artery of the Tuchola Forest
One of Poland's most famous kayak trails – 238 km of clean, forest river through the heart of the Tuchola Forest, from the lakes to the aqueduct at Fojutowo and the oldest dam in the country.
The Brda – paddling artery of the Tuchola Forest
The Brda is one of the best-documented and most-paddled kayak trails in Poland. It runs 238 km from the Bytów Lakeland through the heart of the Tuchola Forest to Bydgoszcz, and the waterway open to kayaks is about 233 km, from Świeszyn to Brdyujście. It leads through pine forest and a chain of ribbon lakes, along the boundary of the 'Bory Tucholskie' National Park and through the Tuchola Landscape Park – giving you a route you can paddle in a single day on a chosen stretch, or spread over a week with camp stops.
The Brda route: from where to where, and how to split it
The classic trail starts on the upper course near Świeszyn and ends in Bydgoszcz, where the Brda flows into the Vistula at Brdyujście. The river is well set up and divides naturally into day-long stretches of 15–25 km, marked out by campsites, water stations and villages with access to the water. The most popular part is the middle course in the heart of the Tuchola Forest – between Swornegacie, Męcikał, Rytel, Woziwoda and Tuchola – where the river is narrow, clean and winding. Below Koronowo the Brda flows into the Koronowo Reservoir and becomes wider and more 'lake-like', while the final stretch runs through Bydgoszcz.
How long does the Brda take? Which stretches for a single day
For a single day, the stretch most often recommended is Rytel-Woziwoda (about 17.6 km) – reckoned by many rentals to be the finest fragment of the whole river – and Woziwoda-Rudzki Most (about 20.5 km) near Tuchola. Both fit into a few hours of relaxed paddling with breaks. Those with more time link the stretches into a multi-day expedition; paddling the whole trail takes about 10–12 days. The upper course above the Forest is less frequented and can be demanding, so for a first trip it is better to choose the marked middle stretches.
Is the Brda difficult? Who the trail is for
The middle Brda in the Tuchola Forest is moderate water, open to beginners and families too – especially the Rytel-Woziwoda and Woziwoda-Rudzki Most stretches, recommended for people with little experience. The river is lively here: in places it speeds up over riffles, fallen trees can lie in it, and through the first kilometres of the upper course (for example Nowa Brda-Przechlewo) it runs through a narrower, more dynamic channel that sources describe as harder and meant rather for the experienced. Below the Koronowo Reservoir comes open, lake-like water, where wind and waves matter. In short: matching the stretch to the group's level is more important here than on an easy lowland river.
Obstacles and portages on the Brda
There are several places on the Brda trail where the kayak has to be carried. The most important is the dam at Mylof – the oldest water dam in Poland, built in 1849 – where kayaks are carried around along the left bank (the forest district provides a trolley for moving the gear). Further down there are portages at the hydro plants: at Samociążek (about 200 m), at Tryszczyn (a short one, about 60–80 m) and at Smukała (about 100 m); on the upper course there is sometimes a short portage at Stara Brda too. In Bydgoszcz the trail is closed off by the historic Municipal Lock. Apart from that, you have to reckon with fallen trees and narrow riffles, typical of a forest river. At portages the same rule applies as everywhere: you carry the kayak, you do not lead it through the obstacle.
The Tuchola Forest: what you'll see along the way
The Brda is the axis of one of the largest forest complexes in Poland. The trail skirts the 'Bory Tucholskie' National Park and leads through the 'Brda River Valley' reserve, and along the way it passes a chain of ribbon lakes: Charzykowskie, Karsińskie, Witoczno and – on the lower course – the vast Koronowo Reservoir. The whole region lies within the Tuchola Forest Biosphere Reserve, inscribed on the UNESCO list. It is a landscape of pine forest, clear lakes and sandy banks, with rich birdlife – one of the reasons the Brda is regarded as a route 'close to nature'.
The Grand Brda Canal and the aqueduct at Fojutowo
One of the country's more interesting hydro-engineering structures is tied to the Brda – the Grand Brda Canal. It was built in the mid-19th century (around 1849) to irrigate the sandy land around Czersk, and it is several dozen kilometres long. Its most famous feature is the aqueduct at Fojutowo: the canal flows above the Czerska Struga, forming a crossing of two watercourses on two levels. It is a recognisable regional attraction and a frequent destination for family trips along the canal itself, calmer than the river.
Where to rent a kayak and how to get back
The Brda is one of the best-served trails in Poland – rentals operate in Rytel, Swornegacie, Męcikał, Woziwoda and around Tleń and Koronowo, among others, usually delivering the gear to the start and collecting it at the finish. This makes it easy to plan a 'point-to-point' trip without your own kayak and with no trouble getting back. Overnight stops along the route are mainly campsites and water stations, including PTTK stations by Lake Charzykowskie and by Witoczno.
When to paddle: water level and season
The Brda is a relatively stable river – it is fed by lakes, so it does not dry out as easily as small lowland rivers, and the season runs from late spring to early autumn. Even so, before you set off it is worth checking the current water level at the nearest gauge: a very high level speeds up the current and floods the portages, while a very low one exposes the riffles. It is most pleasant to paddle in summer, at a settled, average level.
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01
Stara Brda-Swornegacie~64 km
The upper course through the Bytów and Krajna Lakelands – a narrower, in places more dynamic channel, less frequented. Higher up, from Świeszyn, fallen trees and shallows appear in the river, past which the kayak has to be towed.
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02
Swornegacie-Rytel~27 km
Entering the Tuchola Forest: Lakes Charzykowskie and Karsińskie, Męcikał, a clean forest river. Beyond Mylof, a portage at the hydro plant, about 200 m.
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03
Rytel-Woziwoda~18 km
The most often recommended day-long stretch – a narrow, winding river in the heart of the forest, below the dam at Mylof.
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04
Woziwoda-Rudzki Most~20 km
A picturesque stretch near Tuchola, within the 'Brda River Valley' reserve, which is open to paddlers. From Rudzki Most it is still about 2 km overland to Tuchola itself.
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05
Rudzki Most-Bydgoszcz~76 km
The longest and most demanding fragment: first Piekiełko below Świt, where the river speeds up between boulders, then about 25 km of open water on the Koronowo Reservoir, then portages at the hydro plants at Samociążek, Tryszczyn and Smukała, and finally locking through in Bydgoszcz.