Lake Charzykowskie: the cradle of Polish sailing in the Tuchola Forest

Lake Charzykowskie - the cradle of Polish sailing in the Tuchola Forest

Charzykowskie is one of the largest lakes in the Tuchola Forest - about 1,360 hectares in area, more than 30 metres deep, with an exceptionally well-developed, bay-filled shoreline and several islands. Together with the neighbouring Lake Karsińskie, to which it is joined by the Brda, it is sometimes counted as the twelfth largest body of water in Poland. It lies at the threshold of Zaborski Landscape Park, right beside the "Bory Tucholskie" National Park, and its shores are pine forest and sandy beaches. For a paddler it is both a destination in its own right and a gateway onto a longer trail - from Charzykowskie you set out towards Lakes Karsińskie and Długie and onto the river Brda.

Charzykowskie by kayak: the route to Swornegacie

The most popular trip starts from the beach or the harbour at Charzykowy and runs along the shore southwards, through Małe Swornegacie, under the drawbridge, on to Lake Długie and Karsińskie and up to the kayak landing at Swornegacie - about 15 kilometres of calm water. From Swornegacie the trail can be continued down the Brda, one of the most famous kayak trails in Poland: the stretches Małe Swornegacie-Mylof (about 29 km) and Mylof-Woziwoda (about 28 km), with wild stretches known as Piekiełko ("Little Hell"). Charzykowskie is therefore a natural starting point for a trip of several days.

Is Charzykowskie hard? The wind on open water

Put your buoyancy aid on and adjust it while you're still on shore. Technically the lake is easy - there is no current, no weirs and no portages. The real challenge is the wind: on water this large, open and elongated a wave builds up fast, especially when it blows along the lake, and the return trip against the wind can be tiring and dangerous for the less experienced. So paddle along the shore, within quick reach of land, and before you set out check the weather forecast, above all the wind strength. In calm weather, though, Charzykowskie is ideal for families too.

The cradle of Polish sailing

Charzykowy is the place where Polish sailing was born. It was here, in 1922, that the oldest Polish sailing club was founded - the Chojnice Sailing Club, still active on the lake today. Its first president and the pioneer of sailing on Charzykowskie was Otton Weiland, builder of the first Charzykowy boats and, in winter, of iceboats too. Between the wars Charzykowy became a fashionable resort and one of the country's leading water-sports centres, with regattas, marinas and beaches drawing visitors from all over Poland. That sailing character is still visible today: passing the harbour of the Chojnice Sailing Club by kayak, you paddle beside a living tradition more than a hundred years old.

What you'll see from the water: beaches, islands and Funka

The lake's main focal point is the beach at Charzykowy - sandy, with a jetty and a guarded bathing area, next to the harbour from which excursion boats set out. From the water it is worth paddling around the islands, including the Island of Love, once full of life, with a café and a dance floor between the wars, and today quiet and overgrown. On the far side of the lake lies Funka - a well-known holiday resort with a beach. Along the shores run more bays, landings and sandy ways down to the water, backed by a wall of the Tuchola pine forest.

Nature: Zaborski Park and the Tuchola Forest

Charzykowskie lies at the heart of Zaborski Landscape Park, which covers about 340 km² of the Tuchola Forest and almost entirely surrounds the small but precious "Bory Tucholskie" National Park. This whole area forms part of the Tuchola Forest Biosphere Reserve, inscribed on the UNESCO list. It is one of the cleanest and most heavily forested corners of Poland, with around fifty lakes - including rare lobelia lakes, whose crystal-clear, nutrient-poor water shelters relict plants surviving from the Ice Age. Charzykowskie itself is the largest lake in the park - though not the deepest, as the small Lake Płęsno is deeper. Its waters are home to pike, perch and vendace, among others - the last a fish of cold, well-oxygenated lakes - while a rich birdlife is found among the forests and over the bays.

Where to rent a kayak, and the beaches

You'll find kayaks - as well as pedalos and sailing boats - mainly at Charzykowy, by the beach and the harbour, and at Swornegacie at the other end of the popular route. Guarded bathing areas and sandy beaches are at Charzykowy and Funka, and along the lake there are landings and water stations, including places to sleep for those carrying on down the Brda. That means the trip can be arranged either as a short afternoon outing or as the start of a longer expedition.

When to paddle: season and safety in the wind

The season on Charzykowskie runs from late spring to early autumn, and it is most pleasant in summer, with warm water and lighter winds. Because on a large lake it is the wind that decides safety, check the weather forecast and the wind strength before you set out; in a stronger wind it is better to stay close to the shore or put off a longer route to a calmer day. In the morning the water is often at its smoothest - a good moment to cross the open stretches towards Swornegacie.

See the area on the interactive map Click to load the map - routes on the lake, the shoreline and the weather

How to paddle a kayak on the lake? However you like, keeping the safety rules. You paddle in whatever way suits you - you choose the way and the destination yourself. Charzykowskie is large and open, so stay within reach of the shore and get off the water when the wind gets up.