Jeziorak: Poland's longest lake

Jeziorak: Poland's longest lake

Jeziorak lies in the Iława Lakeland, in the western part of the Warmia and Masuria region, with Iława as its southern gateway. It stretches from south to north for more than twenty-seven kilometres, and it is precisely the length, not the surface area, that makes it exceptional: by length it comes first in Poland, while by surface area – it has about 31 square kilometres – only sixth. It is a ribbon lake, narrow and relatively shallow, reaching a dozen-odd metres at its deepest, but extraordinarily broken up: full of bays, peninsulas and islands.

What does that mean for a paddler?

On a long, narrow lake you paddle differently than on one with a compact, round expanse of water. Jeziorak unfolds in a series of reaches and narrows that change character every few kilometres: now open water to the horizon, now a narrow strait between islands, now a quiet, wooded bay. The axis of the lake runs roughly from south to north, so it is easy to plan a one-way trip, from Iława deep into the lakeland, and return by transport or by boat. You only have to remember that on such a long reach the wind has room to gather pace – more on that below.

Wielka Żuława and the islands of Jeziorak

A dozen or so islands are scattered across the lake, and the largest of them, Wielka Żuława, is more than eighty hectares and is sometimes counted among the largest inland islands in the country. It lies in the southern, Iława part of the lake and is a natural goal for the first day: you can paddle right around it, and stop on its shore for a break. Traces of an early-medieval stronghold have survived on the island, and today several holiday resorts operate there, linked to the mainland by a ferry. The smaller islands, strewn further to the north, form a maze of straits where it is easy to spend half a day circling one wooded clump after another.

By canal right up to the town: Iława and Mały Jeziorak

The southern end of the lake has its surprise. From the large, open water a narrow canal leads straight into Iława, to Mały Jeziorak in the middle of the town – the shift from a boundless sheet of water into an urban channel between tenement houses is striking. It is a convenient start and finish point. A passenger boat also runs on the lake, so on the narrow stretches it is worth watching the course of the larger vessels.

Siemiany, Matyty and the quiet north

The main base of the central Jeziorak is Siemiany on the western shore – with marinas, water access and facilities, where many paddlers begin their trip. Further to the north, around Matyty and Jerzwałd, the lake grows quieter and more wooded; this is part of the Iława Lakeland Landscape Park, where forests cover the shores and tourist traffic thins out. Here Jeziorak shows its calmer face: narrow, sheltered bays and wooded straits, where the wind is less of a nuisance.

Towards the Elbląg Canal and beyond

At its northern end, through the Kraga bay and Lake Dauby, Jeziorak links up with the system of the historic Elbląg Canal, and the marked waterway leads on from here, through Miłomłyn towards Ostróda. For anyone planning a longer expedition, Jeziorak is therefore not only a destination but also a gateway to one of the more interesting water systems in northern Poland. A shorter trip, though, sits comfortably within the bounds of the lake itself.

The landscape park and the reserves

Jeziorak and the surrounding waters are protected by the Iława Lakeland Landscape Park. Jeziorak itself is open to kayaks, but nearby lie reserves that must be avoided. The Czerwica reserve, on a separate lake of the same name, protects a former colony of the great cormorant and heron – a place of quiet that is visited from the land side, by an educational trail, and not from the water. Paddling the northern, wooded part of the lakeland, it is simply worth remembering that some of the smaller waters in the park are under protection, and not every branch is open to traffic.

Safety on long, open water

Put your buoyancy aid on and adjust it while you're still ashore. The greatest challenge on Jeziorak is not obstacles, for there are none, but its own length. On an open reach of several kilometres the wind drives a wave along the axis of the lake, and paddling back into the wind can be tiring and risky for a kayak. So set off in the morning, when the water is calmer, keep to the shore and to sheltered bays, and do not cut across the wide reaches at an angle when the wind is stronger. Check the forecast before you go – on such a long lake it is the strength of the wind, not the water level, that decides whether the day goes well.

See the area on the interactive map Click to load the map - routes on the lake, shores and weather

How do you paddle a kayak on Jeziorak? This is the longest lake in Poland – narrow, ribbon-shaped and in places very open. In the wind a wave builds quickly on the long reach, so keep to the shore and to sheltered bays, turn your bow into the wave and wear a buoyancy aid. From the southern end a narrow canal leads right up to the town, to Mały Jeziorak in Iława, and to the north – through the Kraga bay and Lake Dauby – you head out into the Elbląg Canal system.